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Motorcycle Riding Blog

Rides, Photos, Comfort, and Tech

Jan 12

30

Today we rode to clear our minds.

By DHENRY
Filed Under 2012 Rides, Uncategorized  | | 1 Comment»

Today we rode to clear our minds.  Some life events are difficult to understand and deal with.  Sometimes there are no answers.  So we put on warm clothes, donned leathers, and started off on this sunny, cool January afternoon for a short ride. 
OGG’S CREEK

Our route, Georgia Highway 17, headed toward Toccoa. We cross Ogg’s Creek and  I wonder if Ogg is the bridge troll, as in “Who’s that tromping over my bridge?”  “It is I, Little Billy Goat Gruff.” 

We turn onto the Toccoa Bypass, also known as “Veteran’s Memorial Way”, with intersections dedicated to veterans of America’s various wars.  Next, Highway 183 takes us past Currahee Mountain and through miles of rural Georgia. My mind wanders freely along with the scenery.

MACK & BUCK'S AUTO SALVAGE

 

We come to Homer, Georgia, self-proclaimed “Home of the World’s Largest Easter Egg Hunt”.

Also, the location of Mack and Buck’s Auto Salvage.  Now, how Southern is that?

On to Maysville, then Commerce, where we pick up US 441 and head north. 

TEMPORARY LOCATION THIRD HEAVEN

 

We pass the “Temporary Location of Third Heaven”.  I wonder if they are full “Up Yonder” and are using Baldwin, Georgia as an annex. 

A few more miles of winding roads and we head home.

Whispering Pines Road

We turn onto Whispering Pines Road.  The noise in my head has quieted to a whisper also.  One hundred miles in the wind.  It helps.

In memory of our nephew
Joshua John Henry
June 18, 1976 – January 23, 2012
U. S. Navy Seabees, Iraqi Freedom
Casualty PTSD

Aug 11

8

Got a new front tire and now the brakes drag.

By GT
Filed Under Motorcycle safe riding, Technical Discussion  | Tagged With: | | No Comments»

A new front tire has been installed and now another problem shows up.  The front brakes drag.  Not the slight swishing sound that is common with disk brakes, but when you roll the bike you feel braking action and hear a genuine scrub coming from the front brakes.

The positioning of the forks on the axle may be the culprit and more than likely, the problem is easily resolved.  Check to see if your motorcycle has a “headless” front axle that slides into the fork and wheel assembly and uses squeeze bolts to keep the axle secure.  On one end of the axle will be a nut or bolt and the other end has no obvious head.  There will be one or two clamp bolts positioned  at the bottom end of each fork leg, below the axle.  Make sure you are not looking at the fork oil drain plug.  If there is an oil drain plug, it is generally positioned slightly above the axle.  If the fork leg opposite the axle bolt or nut has a caliper mounted to it, it is more than likely the side with the dragging issue.

The squeeze bolts on that leg may have been snugged slightly during the wheel installation to prevent the axle from turning when the axle end fastener was being tightened.  This flexes the fork legs slightly together and reduces the needed spacing for the brake caliper to operate properly.  Because of how the axle assembly is desiged, the leg opposite the axle nut or bolt is where the problem will show up.

The correction is to loosen the axle clamp on the leg opposite the axle nut or bolt.  This relieves the clamping on the axle end and allows the fork leg to spring sideways, away from the wheel, to a neutral  position.  Relieving the weight on the axle may help.  If the axle was difficult to install, the fork leg may require some assistance to reposition.  No major prying,  just enough to help the fork leg to slide.  If it does not slide easily, then there are additional issues which should be corrected.   The movement could be as much as 3/16″.

The repositoning of the axle leg to the neutral position gives the caliper the space needed to self-center on the brake rotor.  If the fork leg has been flexed closer to the wheel, the caliper is unable to  self-center and the outer brake pad will constantly scrub the rotor.

I hope this helps.

Jun 11

7

The tool bag

By GT
Filed Under Motorcycle safe riding, Technical Discussion, Uncategorized  | Tagged With: , , , | | No Comments»

Over the miles, the contents of the tool bag have been customized to meet the needs of problems we have encountered while riding and to ease certain paranoias.

The bike is a Honda Shadow Spirit 1100 which has a factory tool kit.  In addition to the factory tools,  this is a list of what is in the backrest tool bag.

  • First Aid Kit
  • Extra Bungee Cord
  • Tire Plug Kit-straight handled variety.
    The T-handletype demands too much room.  A section of fuel line is put over the pointed ends.
  • Motorcycle size can of emergency tire sealant “air compressor in a can”.
  • Small standard and needlenose vice grips
  • Set of boot strings.  Convienient for emergency zipper repairs or for tieing things to the bike.
  • 8″ Zip-ties
  • Set of new sparkplugs pre-gapped
  • Leatherman multitool
  • Spare fuses
  • Half roll of black electrical tape. A leg zipper gave way on a set of rain gear during a heavy rain storm.  A half dozen wraps of black tape with the rain gear fabric overlapped to shed water and I was able to stay reasonably dry for about 400 miles.
  • Two headlight relays.  The headlight wiring on my bike has been modified for use with higher output H4 bulbs.  The handlebar switches contol the relays and the relays draw power directly from the battery using larger wiring than stock.  These relays were located under the seat to keep them “dry” but sometimes moisture is still a problem and the relays randomly need to be replaced.  The spot lights use the same relay.
  • Replacement H-4 headlight bulb.   I made a container out of a cut down plastic shampoo bottle and a paint can lid to protect the bulb.  Inside is foam with an opening for the bulb.  This keeps the other stuff in the bag from breaking the spare bulb.
  • Voltage regulator.  Several years ago, two voltage regulators died only a short time apart.  Both times while on a ride.  I was able to relocate the plug-in connector for the regulator and get reasonable access under the left side cover.  I now keep a replacement regulator with the bike.  If the regulator dies again, I will pull the side cover and strap it to the bike with the extra bungee, unplug the connector, plug in the new regulator and tie it to the bike with the boot string, do what it takes to get the bike restarted, and continue with the ride.  I’ll do the permanent repair when I get home.

Every thing is packaged in zip lock bags to keep it dry.

 

May 11

3

Transmission shifting problems

By GT
Filed Under Technical Discussion  | | No Comments»

Recently, a customer came in because his transmission would not shift up between second and third gear.  It would always hang.  He had mentally prepared himself for a BIG BUCK repair.

I did a test ride and had no problems.  The motorcycle shifted very smoothly.  I could not duplicate the problem.

The problem turned out to be his boots.  He has large feet and wears thick footwear.  The boots rested under, and maintained contact with, the toe shifter.  With his boot on the floorboard, the boot thickness kept the shift lever from completely returning and allowing the transmission to ratchet to the next gear.

Re-adjust the shift lever a little higher and the problem is solved.

Apr 11

8

Road Pegs, Highway Pegs, Cruising Pegs

By GT
Filed Under Motorcycle Comfort  | | No Comments»

There is something about cruisin’…. laying back and stretched out…. that puts me in the “zone”.  That mental state where everything bothersome and mind clutter is left somewhere along the road as debris.  Cruise pegs are part of what makes this happen.

The ability to shift the position of my legs and feet adds miles of comfort.  Repositioning my feet maintains blood flow and leg muscles are allowed to stretch out, relieving stiffness and cramping.   This also helps to minimize butt pain.  With my legs stretched out and feet resting on the road pegs, part of the butt support from the seat is shifted to my thigh.  This lessens the pressure on my butt that causes the pain.  Maintaining circulation, letting muscles change position, and reducing seat pressure on the butt is key to riding comfort.

The options for mounting road pegs depend on the motorcycle.  Some bikes have several choices for mounting the extra pegs, while for other motorcycles the choice is limited.

Clamp on road peg

Universal clamp-on road peg

The most common variety of road pegs are clamp-on.  These are generally universal.  Select the correct diameter clamp for your mounting point.  Common mounting positions are engine guards or possibly to the frame down tubes.

 

Another method is to install a mustache bar with pegs.

Mustache bar

Bolt-on mustache bar

Mustache bar on HD Dyna

 

 

 

 

 

 

Yamaha floorboard cruise peg mounts

 

If the motorcycle has footboards, extended peg mount may be available which bolt to the floorboard or flootboard mounting hardware, such as these for a Yamaha.

 

 

 

HD Dresser frame mount cruise peg mounts

 

 

These are a bolt on frame mount for HD Dressers.  Your favorite custom pegs are purchased separately.

Motor mount cruise peg mounts

 

 

 

Another option for some motorcycles is an extended peg mount which bolts to the motorcycle using the same mounting location as the stock pegs or the motor mount bolts.

 

Integral enging guard cruise peg

 

 

Some engine guards are designed with a integral fixed footrest so additional pegs are not required.

Adjustable position passenger peg

 

 

 

 

 

Options are also available for passengers such as this adjustable position passenger peg.

 

 

 

 

 

If you are tall or short, offset and extended peg mounts are available.

Offset clamp-on cruise pegs

Extended peg mount

 

 

 

 

 

 

This listing is in no way complete.  A multitude of cruise peg variations are available.  Adding another location to place your feet will add miles of riding comfort.

 

Mar 11

15

How Do You Know if a Motorcycle Fits?

By GT
Filed Under Motorcycle Comfort  | | No Comments»

A comfortable motorcycle lets you ride for hours and miles without various body parts shouting out their pain and numbness.  You ride from fuel-stop to fuel-stop  without a test of endurance.  A little stiff maybe, but not painful (I get a bit stiff sitting on the sofa watching TV) .

The fit between the rider and the motorcycle is the key to maximizing comfort. Every rider is built differently from every other rider.  Because of this, what one rider finds to be comfortable may not be comfortable for another rider.  Improving motorcycle comfort is a very individualized endeavor.  Most motorcycles can be improved, but the key to maximizing rider comfort is selecting one that starts with a good rider and passenger fit.

This is what to look for while checking out that new ride or figuring out how to improve your existing ride.  These suggestions also apply to passenger comfort.  Anything that puts your body in an unnatural or contorted position will cause pain and discomfort.  The closer to a natural fit, the more comfortable the motorcycle will be.

All of these suggestions assume that the motorcycle physical size and operational characteristics meet the skill level of the rider.  It is also assumed that the operator’s feet reach the ground and the operator can support the motorcycle weight and bulk while in the standing “waiting on the traffic light” position.  It is also an assumption that for the purposes of these suggestions, the rider and passenger are sitting on the motorcycle and in a normal riding position.   Another thing to consider when comfort is a priority, using accessories that are “cool” and the goal of achieving comfort do not always mix.

Peg and foot control position:
What to look for:
Legs should fall into a position that feels natural.  Do they feel folded, curled or cramped?  Are you able to sit on the seat in a natural riding position and reach the pegs and foot controls without having to stretch or contort your legs around air cleaners or other components?  When sitting on the motorcycle with your feet on the pegs, your knees should elevate no higher than a normal comfortable “chair sitting” position.  As I am fairly tall, I prefer the forward control position.  This puts my legs in a more extended position and keeps me from having to curl my knees into an unnatural position.  Someone shorter or medium height may prefer the mid-control position.  If the position of the shift lever and brake pedal feels unnatural, are they adjustable to work with a more natural foot position and motion?

Seat fit:
When checking out a motorcycle, pay attention to the seat fit.  The combination of rider’s size, shape, height, weight, leg position, and riding style determine which seat configuration is most comfortable for that individual.  I know riders that go for miles in comfort with the stock seat offerings, and I also know riders that spend big bucks on aftermarket replacement seats attempting to find the comfort they are looking for.  Many seat designs are made for style and sleekness but are horrible for comfort.  This is especially true for passenger seats.  Getting to the bottom of the matter (pun intended), if you do not fit your seat, your butt will hurt.
What to look for:
When sitting on the seat in riding position with feet on the pegs, your entire bottom should feel evenly supported by the seat.  This support should be evenly felt from the top of the back of the seat, across the bottom of the seat, and all the way down to where your legs pass over the edge of the seat and from one side of the seat to the other.  This distributes your body weight and helps prevent pressure areas that lead to pain and numbness.  If the seat is humped in the center or cut out in the center, and not relatively flat, if this is not your physical shape, pressure areas are created that cause a painful butt.  Seat pressure on the legs should be no more that what is felt on your bottom.  Excess pressure in this area can cause muscle cramping on long rides.  If you are one of the individuals that have tailbone problems, make sure the seat does not exert excessive tailbone pressure.  The back of the seat should fit naturally.  A seat back that is overly curved may feel comfortable and secure when sitting in the showroom but it squeezes the rider and will cause lots of discomfort on a long ride.  A seat back that is less curved and does not squeeze the rider can be more comfortable on long rides.  Any seat decoration that you have to sit on, like pleats, buttons, tucks, etc, add the potential for discomfort.  The passenger seat should not poke the operator in the back unless it is specifically designed to be a backrest for the operator.  There should be enough passenger space so the operator does not feel crowded.  When the rider changes seat position, the seat should still feel comfortable.  Available seat hardness goes from “pillow top soft” to “board hard”.  This is a personal choice as to what is comfortable.  I don’t care for the “board hard” as found on many aftermarket custom seats.  Neither do I like “pillow top soft”.  My personal comfort seat hardness is in the medium range.  I want to sink into the seat without the seat being so soft I feel swallowed up.  This means, the seat is shaping to me and not forcing me to shape to the seat.  It also means the seat is supporting me and not so soft it is not giving any support.

Handlebars and Hand Controls:
What to look for:
With the rider sitting in a comfortable upright riding position, the handlebar adjustment should allow the rider’s arms to fall into a natural position.  The rider’s body should not have to lean forward to reach the grips.  Shoulders should feel relaxed, arms extended with elbows slightly bent.  The slightly bent elbows in this upright seating position lets the rider change position while riding and maintain arm comfort.  Hands should align with the controls without having to twist the wrist from side to side to reach the brake or clutch lever or while holding the grips.

Summary
A very good comparison when thinking about motorcycle comfort is to consider what you find important when buying shoes.  You know a comfortable pair of shoes when you feel it.  They feel natural.  When you wear them they don’t demand your attention.  They do not rub, squeeze, contort, or hurt your feet.  When evaluating motorcycle comfort, you need to avoid anything that forces your body into an unnatural position, or anything that makes you constantly aware of  a sensation that is not quite comfortable.  If it feels this way on the showroom floor, it only becomes more irritating and painful on rides.

A riding position that feels natural, and a seat that gives uniform support is the key to comfortable motorcycle riding.

In future posts, I will discuss accessories which add more comfort to riding.

Mar 11

7

Choosing a beginner motorcycle

By GT
Filed Under Motorcycle safe riding  | Tagged With: , , | | No Comments»

Last weekend I was asked to give an opinion on what makes a good beginner motorcycle.  The person making the request had never ridden before.  No dirt bikes, no scooters, nothing with two wheels beyond a bicycle.  There are a number of good beginner motorcycles.  Hopefully, this helps someone find the right motorcycle for their situation.

The selected motorcycle size and performance should fit within the skill level of the new rider.  For a person that has had regular previous riding experience but is new to street riding, a medium cruiser or smaller sport bike makes a good starting point.  For the person with no or very little previous riding experience, the smaller cruiser would probably be a better choice.

The performance characteristics of small sport bikes can catch the newbee off-guard.  Sport bikes tend to be short wheelbase, have higher seats, and very quick bottom end acceleration.  This combination of factors means, a flick of the wrist and the rider may experience the first wheelie, or the bike coming over backwards, or a number of combinations of being out of control.  At best, everything is brought back under control or the bike gets a bit banged up or scratched.  At worst…well, it could be lots worse.

Cruisers tend to have a longer wheel base. lower seat height, and slower bottom end acceleration.  If riding experience is in doubt, choose a cruiser.

Sit on lots of bikes.  Pay attention to how the motorcycle fits.  For the same reason you buy shoes that fit, only buy a motorcycle that fits.  Usually, factory footpeg positions are not adjustable, so if your legs or feet are not comfortable when on the pegs, the motorcycle does not fit.  If you are satisfied with the peg position and the shift lever or brake pedal is not in the right place, most of the time, they  can be adjusted to the rider’s preference.   When on the bike and standing with feet on the ground, like at at traffic light, the weight, height, and balance of the motorcycle should be comfortable to control.  Handlebar, grip, clutch and front brake controls should feel natural.  Most of the time,  these are somewhat adjustable to the rider’s preference.  With hands on the grips and feet on the pegs, the rider’s body should feel like it is in a natural position for riding, not straining, folded up, cramped, or stretched.

If you like the motorcycle and the bike seems to fit with the possible exception of one or two of the mentioned adjustments, be sure to ask if those adjustments are possible.  The controls on most motorcycles can be adjusted to reasonably fit the rider.  But adjustability varies depending on the brand and model.

Take a motorcycle safety course.  Buy a motorycle to learn on.  Then, sometime later after getting comfortable with street riding,  trade in the learner bike for the motorcycle you really want.

Feb 11

5

Motorcycle Riding Comfort

By GT
Filed Under Motorcycle Comfort  | | No Comments»

It is my belief that it should be reasonable for a biker to ride in a day approximately the same distance that they could drive in a car, and with reasonable comfort.  More motorcycle riding comfort means more ride enjoyment.

My wife and I often take trips that require  400 to 650 mile days back-to-back.  Improving  motorcycle riding comfort has been a gradual process over several years and has been in response to experiencing a lot of riding discomfort.  Adding comfort to the ride is still evolving.

Our motorcycle is a 1997 Honda Shadow 1100 with stock seats.  It has a nice large operator butt-bucket saddle and a smaller rectangular passenger seat.  I am going to point out it is in no way a “touring” bike, but a basic cruiser.    Even with touring bikes, riders often limit the riding day to 350 miles or so because they are “tired”.

This is the first post in a thread that will be what I have found in accessories and techniques that  make motorcycle riding more comfortable and ultimately more enjoyable.

Sep 10

27

Motorcycle carburetor jetting and fuel mileage for S&S 113 engine.

By GT
Filed Under Technical Discussion  | | 2 Comments»

I just got back from a 120 mile ride on my custom bike.  I recently did some work on the bike with the hope of better fuel mileage.  Previous fuel consumption had been around mid 30′s mpg.  I hoped it could be made better.

On this ride, I wanted to see the results.  The fuel was 93 octane.  With two gas stops, both showed 46 mpg.  I was surprised.  That is way better than my 1100 Honda Shadow.

The basic specs for the motorcycle are

  • S&S 113 engine with S&S Super G carb.
  • Forcewinder intake with K&N filter
  • Baker 6 speed transmission
  • Crane HI-4 ignition
  • Matt Hotch 2″ Radial Exhaust

The exhaust has torque cones installed and a shop made donut baffle added in each exhaust tube to create a slight back pressure and help break up the standing wave.

This makes a big difference in tuning the carb for mid rpm ranges.  Without the donut baffle, the bike was a dog at cruising rpm’s.  This ride was in the mountains, with lots of curves, and lots of fun.  Fifth and Sixth were the two favorite gears.  Lots of torque at the bottom rpm ranges.   Lots of power coming out of the curves.  The biggest problem was having to go slow enough in the curves to keep from scrubbing the exhaust tip.  The exhaust needs to be modified to keep this from happening.

The Super G carb settings are as follows:

  • Intermediate jet  031
  • Main jet 076
  • Float level   3/16
  • Accelerator pump screw adjustment set to give good off-idle throttle response and no black smoke.  Probably set a little to the lean side.

I am very satisfied.

May 10

4

The Ride Easy motorcycle gel pad

By GT
Filed Under Motorcycle Comfort  | | No Comments»

If you ride long hours and distances on a motorcycle, you know about “biker butt”.  Even an afternoon ride can be uncomfortable.  We now carry a motorcycle gel pad that in  personal tests, have ridden 650 mile days back-to-back with no numbness or pain, just a little stiffness.   The stiffness is about equal to riding in a car for 13 hours.   The pad is called Ride Easy and is manufactured by Ride Easy Products, Inc.  www.Ride-Easy.com

It comes in five sizes for the most common motorcycle seat configurations.  For a different riding feel, the pad can be flipped.  Each side has a different reaction to motorcycle and road vibration and impact.  It is not harder and softer, just different.

When riding long distances, I flip the pad occasionally.  This change of feel keeps the miles comfortable.  I actually find myself lost in thought, and not thinking about butt pain.

Check out the link.  This is the best gel pad I have used.  By the way, my wife and I own the company.  You can purchase on-line from www.Ride-Easy.com.

Nov 08

19

Tie-down Straps are all the same, Right?….Wrong!!!

By GT
Filed Under Trailering a motorcycle  | | No Comments»

You have acquired your new motorcycle.  You have cleaned and polished and maybe added new pegs, handlebars, and other items to make this bike uniquely yours.

Then the time comes when you need to load it on a trailer or in a pickup.  You go to Discount-Mart and buy the discounted tie-down straps because they are cheap.  You load your bike, strap it down and away you go.

………………………………………….

As a motorcycle shop owner, there have been a number of opportunities to help stand a customer’s motorcycle back up up before it can be unloaded.  That is a sick feeling.  The owner is usually making unsightly comments about the choice of cheap straps or rope he used.  I don’t care if it is a stock production motorcycle or a full custom with a mega-buck paint job. It’s sickening to see the motorcycle laying on its side. I hate the disappointment in the owners face.  The bike seems to never be the same after that.  It has been damaged and violated.  That scrub or dent is a painful reminder.

…………………………………………….

The function of tie-down straps.

The function of a tie-down strap is simple.  Securely support the motorcycle in an upright position without scratching the paint and chrome, or denting the sheet metal.  Meanwhile, the motorcycle is jerking around on a jolting trailer which is hitting pavement joints and pot holes and going down the road at 70 MPH.  That is what the tie-down strap is supposed to do.

I wish I could say I’ve never dropped a cycle in a trailer.  I did once, a long time ago.  It was a used Honda 360 I had just bought.  I did several things wrong.  I used rope.  The trailer had a slick floor and I didn’t tie the the wheel to keep it from sliding.  And that brings up a question.

Why not rope?

Rope is a last ditch choice to be used only when no other option is available.  Ropes stretch excessively letting the motorcycle move.  The knots can be difficult to untie.  Re-tightening a rope during a long trip is clumsy because of having to untie and then retying the knots.  The security is only as good as the person’s ability to tie knots.  Unbuffered rope rubs paint and chrome.  It is difficult to keep the motorcycle controlled, so it doesn’t fall over during a single handed tie-down or unloading.  This the reason for using tie-down straps and not rope.

Considerations when choosing Tie-Down straps.

Length

Lengths are available from 4′ to 12′.  Make sure the length is enough to reach the trailer tie points.

Load limit

The Discount-Mart straps generally have a 300-600 pound load limit.  Most tie-down straps at the Discount-Mart are actually cargo straps made to secure bulk loads on pickups and trailers.  Straps designed for motorcycles are generally 1000 pound or more working strength.  A 1200-2600 pound limit is common.  More is better.

Buckle strap or ratchet strap

The primary straps holding the motorcycle in position are the two straps fastened to the front of the bike.  The fastening location is commonly the triple-tree or handlebars.  I prefer the triple-tree location.  It is generally recommended that ratchet straps be used for this purpose.  Ratchets are less likely to slip.  After mastering the use of the ratchets, tie down becomes fairly simple.  It is easy to cinch the bike into place.  It is easy to retighten on a long trip.

Many people use buckle straps for the primary support.  This is where trouble comes when using cheap straps.  Aside from low working strength, the fabric material in the cheap straps is usually hard and the serrations in the buckle have difficulty getting a bite, so the strap slips and the bike falls.  The buckle straps designed for motorcycles are higher strength.  A softer and thicker strap material is used which is easier for the buckle to grab.  There is less chance of the buckle slipping.

Generally, buckle straps are used when securing the front tire to keep it from slipping out from under the bike and when tying the rear of the bike to keep it from walking side to side.

Metal hook type

Most straps use  “J” hooks which are coated with a rubbery material.  If you prefer hooking to the handlebar with the hook, not all hooks are large enough to fit the inch handle bar diameter.  Make sure the hook is large enough.

Some straps use one coated “J” hook and one caribiner style hook for the trailer side which has a “snap-flip”.  This is used to keep the hook in place even if the strap gets slack.  It is also helpful by keeping the hook fastened when loading a cycle by yourself.

“Soft Hook”

This is a feature I really like.  The “soft hook” is actually an additional length of strap material with a loop that is added to one end of the tie-down.  The “soft hook” is threaded through the desired fastening location on the cycle.  The loop on the “soft hook” is slipped over the “J” hook and the strap is then pulled tight.  Many times, a “soft hook” can be used to get a good fastening location when a metal hook will not fit.  Only fabric is touching the bike, not coated metal.  On some bikes, this is the only way to easily keep the hook from making contact with paint and sheet metal parts and causing damage.  For further protection, the metal hook is held away from the bike.  The soft hook can be used with a fleece sleeve to give more paint and chrome protection.

Fleece sleeve

Generally, the fleece sleeve is a natural or synthetic wool material.  It is slipped over the “soft hook” or a tie strap and used to buffer paint and chrome at the tie down point.  It adds protection in addition to the fabric of the “soft hooks” or tie straps.

Tie Straps

The tie strap is a fabric loop used as an alternate to the “soft hook”.  It is a fabric strap about 18-24″ long with a loop sewn on both ends.  It is used similarly to the “soft hook”.  It can be used with, and many times is included with, the fleece sleeve.

Conclusion

My thought is…. I paid good money for my bike,  I’ll pay for good straps.

Oct 08

7

Maximizing Tire Mileage

By GT
Filed Under Technical Discussion  | | No Comments»

What does it take to get more miles out of your motorcycle tires?

Let’s start by taking a look at the factors that contribute to tire wear.  This article is primarily about cruiser/touring motorcycles.  However the principles apply to other motorcycle types.

Tire quality:

The old addage,” you get what you pay for” is somewhat true about motorcycle tires.  When comparing tires for the same recommended application, cheaper tires usually have a shorter life.  It comes down to a difference in tread depth and rubber quality.

On the other side, the wear life for the most expensive tires is not necessarily proportionally greater.

For reasonable mileage at reasonable cost, the mid-price range tires usually work out well.   Around 9000 miles is the highest verifiable mileage I have seen from motorcycle tires.  These were Dunlop K555Js on two Honda VTX1300′s and a Yamaha XVS1100.  For average commuting/weekend riding, about 5000-6000 miles is common.  Usually a 3500 mile tire means an agressive riding stye or low tire pressure.

How much wear is too much:

Most motorcycle tires have wear indicator bars similar to automotive tires.  When these wear bars are even with the tread surface hitting the road, it is time to change.

Inserting a penny into the tread groove, Lincolns head first, is another common gauge.  If the tread just comes to Lincoln’s head or less, it is time to change the tire.

The tire in this picture is dangerously over-worn.  There is less than a sixteenth of an inch of tire thickness and no less than a good firm finger jab between an inflated tire and disaster.  Don’t wait this long to replace a tire.

Basic wear pattern:

Because a motorcycle tire has a crowned or rounded profile (as compared to a car tire with a flat profile), for most bike riding, the center third of the tire will wear faster than the tread along the edge of the tire.  This is because most riding is “straight up” highway or street riding, and the center of the tire is what touches the pavement.

Type of riding and riding style:

Start and stop, light to light riding shortens tire life.  The accelerating and braking scrubs off tire rubber.

Straight-up Interstate riding, mile after mile has less tire wear.

Concrete can be more abrasive to tires than asphalt.

Agressive starting and stopping and knee-dragging greatly shortens tire life.  The harder you hammer the bike, the shorter the tire mileage.

Tire balancing:

An unbalanced motorcycle tire bounces down the road.  How much it bounces depends on how unbalanced it is.  This makes all kinds of cupping and uneven “spot” wear which creates it’s own brand of vibration.  A tire can have good tread except for a spot or two making it necessary to replace the tire prematurely.

The vibration from the tire being unbalanced and cupped is tiring for the riders.  It can be miserable on a long ride.

Proper tire pressure cannot be over emphasized:

Maintain tire pressure to no less than the motorcycle manufacturer recommendations, and no more than the maximum pressure listed on the sidewall of the tire.  As a general rule, the more weight carried, the higher the pressure needed.

A tire pressure that is too low causes the contact patch with the road to squirm and scrub as the contact area flattens to the road surface, essentially scrubbing off tire rubber.  This under-inflated tire consumes horsepower and fuel because it is harder to roll.  (Have you ever tried to push a bike with a flat tire?) It also affects motorcycle handling by making the bike difficult to turn in tight corners.  The bike wants to understeer or keep going straight.

Maximum tire pressure when it is not required causes the tire to ride the top of the tire crown.  The contact patch becomes short and narrow.   The bike is easy to roll and handling is probably very good but the tire contact patch is so narrow that the very center takes all the wear.  Lowering the tire pressure to the recommendation for the load will make the contact patch slightly wider and longer, putting more rubber surface on the road.  This will distribute the starting/stopping/handling load over a larger surface reducing tire wear.

Checking tire pressure:

Tires lose air pressure!  New tires lose air pressure!  Tires with inner tubes lose air pressure!  Tubeless tires lose air pressure!  The tire type or brand does not matter, it will lose air pressure over time.  Tire pressure needs to be checked regularly.

So what does this all mean?

It is not possible to guarantee wear mileage for a motorcycle tire because of all the variables involved.  But with care, tire life can be maximized for a particular rider and motorcycle.

I have learned that checking monthly and before extended rides keeps tire pressure where I like it.  I am currently at 7000 miles on a set of Dunlops with about a 1000 more to go.  The front tire is a Dunlop D404 110/90-19 and the rear is a Dunlop K555J 170/80-15.  About 5500 miles was interstate in 100+ degree weather and the bike (over)loaded to the max, and the rest has been everyday parts running and weekend riding.

ENJOY THE RIDE.

G. T. Henry

 

Aug 08

18

“…PUT ON NEW TIRES, AND MAKE IT SO IT CAN BE RIDDEN. AND BY THE WAY, MAKE IT SAFE.”

By GT
Filed Under Technical Discussion  | | No Comments»

The sub-title is “One Motorcycle’s Story.”

I am writing this post because a lot of ‘60, ‘70 ‘and ‘80 motorcycles are being pulled out of retirement in response to gas prices.  The problems with this Goldwing are typical when trying to breath new life into an old bike.  This story is true.  Names have been changed to protect the innocent.

This is the story of an ‘82 Goldwing.  It appeared to be in basic reasonable condition but had not been ridden in about 10 years.  I was asked to just put on new tires, clean the carbs, check the brakes and generally make it safe to ride.  It sounded reasonably simple.

So, I started.

Let’s see if it will turn over, fire and maybe even run.  Add a splash of gas, check the oil, turn the key, hit the switch and …nothing.  Charge the battery.  The battery is shot.  What is that wet spot I see collecting on top of the engine.  It looks strangely like gas.  The bottom of that gas tank doesn’t look too good.  Oh well, I will add it on the list of things to check.  It is not leaking too bad for right now.

A new battery is ordered and installed.  New spark plugs are installed.  There is still gas in the tank.  Turn the key and hit the switch.  The engine turns once…twice..what is that smell?  Where is that smoke coming from?  Why did the engine quit turning over.  The starter fried.  This is becoming more that I bargained for.  Oh well.  Let’s get the starter replaced and go on.

The new starter arrives.  Remove the exhaust (man, that exhaust pipe looks rotten), Loosen the engine and slide it to the side.  Remove the old starter without losing anything inside the engine case.  Install the new starter (four hours of frustration trying to get the starter drive chain and gear splines aligned with the splines on the starter shaft).

While the engine is loose, remove carbs and install the rebuild kits which took two days to locate and another five for delivery.  Chip and soak the varnish out of the carb  bowls, and every little jet and passage.  Two days later, reassemble and install the carbs.  Check fuel flow to the carbs before connecting the new fuel line.  No flow.

The tank has gas.  No gas coming out.  Remove fuel valve from side of tank under seat.  Full of gunk.  Clean valve and run a piece of stiff wire into the tank passage.  It gets blocked.

Oh well, let’s remove the tank to clean it.  It needs to be fixed anyway.  I sure would like to start this thing to see if runs.

Remove rear tire, fender, swingarm, and everything else in the way.  Slide the tank out from under the seat area toward the rear of the bike.  Those brake pads are shot.  What is that white powdery stuff coming out from around the caliper piston?  I wonder if the front brakes are the same?  Yup!! Just like the back brakes.  AND THE CALIPERS ARE FROZEN!! AND LOOK AT THAT RUBBER BRAKE LINE.  IT HAS SOME MAJOR CRACKING GOING ON.  Man… I hope this thing runs!!

I empty the gas and look in the tank to see the condition.  What a bucket of rust.  Cleaning and using tank liner is out of the question.  Inside the tank are two tubes for the main and reserve settings and both have inaccessible screens on the ends.  Tank liner would plug them up tight.  The bottom is thin with lots of rust pinholes, so something has to be done.  I price a new tank.  $1300 but not available.  This is a problem.

Only one choice.  Clean the tank and break out the solder.  The tank is cleaned in and out with a strong degreaser, and the pickup tubes are rodded out to make sure they are open.  The tank is allowed to air for several days.  A large area is buffed and coated with solder.

Man, I sure hope this bike runs.

I cannot get the old calipers apart.  New calipers are no longer available.  After two days of looking, I find a source for reconditioned brake calipers and get them on order.  I will see them in about two weeks.  I find and order master cylinder rebuild kits.

I install the fuel tank and reassemble the rear of the bike using various much needed new parts where required.

I put fuel in the tank.  Fuel is finally coming out.  But it is not getting to the carbs.  The fuel pump has died.  Replace the fuel pump.

I still hope this thing runs.

Finally, the carbs are full of gas, the battery is good, the starter works, the oil is fresh, the timing belts are new.  Now, let’s see if this starts.  Turn the key, hit the switch…… the engine turns and fires.  Let it warm up and then shut it off.

Adjust the engine valves.

Start the engine and balance the carbs.

Install reconditioned calipers with new brake pads.

Rebuild the master cylinders.

Install new wheel bearings and seals.

Put on new tires.

There was a good test ride.

After it was all done, parts cost for this simple request was about $2000 and full labor time would have been about $3000.

This is what was required to just “put on new tires, clean the carbs, check the brakes and generally make it safe to ride”.  Once into the job, there was no stopping until it came out the other side.

Jul 08

16

Thread Locker Compounds (Loctite, Threadlocker, etc.)

By GT
Filed Under Technical Discussion  | | No Comments»

Threadlocker is good.

Threadlocker is bad.

Thread locking compounds are applied to bolts to keep them from vibrating loose.  Certain motorcycles have a bad habit of spreading parts along the road as the bolts fall out.  Threadlockers keep the parts on and the roadway clear of roadkill motorcycle parts.

I use two types of threadlocker.  Medium strength and High Strength. 

The Medium Strength threadlocker is what I use most often.  It is a general purpose threadlocker and can be applied to small Phillips Head screws and anything larger.  Medium Strength stays sort of gummy and can be removed with some resistance but relatively easily.  The small fasteners (ie. handlebar control screws, etc.) require only a small drop.  Larger fasteners can be smothered in Medium Strength threadlocker if so desired.  I use this on some axle threads and nuts. 

The High Strength threadlocker, I use in only a few locations.  Usually where the fastener is large (3/8″ or larger) and they take a pounding.  Applications include clutch to output shaft nuts, stator nuts, fork stem nut or bolt, etc.  The High Strength threadlocker gets hard.  Small bolts may break before loosening with the High Strength threadlocker.  Finding that High Strength threadlocker has been used on small Phillips Head, Allen, or Torx is a mechanics nightmare.  Particularly after the heads have already been stripped out.  Politely stated—AAAAAAARRRRGGGGHHHH !!!!!!!!!

For general chassis use, Medium Strength threadlocker is sufficient.  Occasionally, High Strength may be necessary but only on larger fasteners.

High Strength threadlocker should never be used on anything 1/4″ and smaller.  It has too strong of a hold for successful fastener removal.  If a larger bolt has a 5/32″ or smaller allen or T25 or smaller torx head, using medium strength should be considered to keep from stripping out the head. 

Threadlocker is good—-when used properly.

Threadlocker is bad—-if High Strength is used on the wrong fastener.

Jul 08

16

Riding on a gravel road

By GT
Filed Under Motorcycle safe riding  | | 2 Comments»

The thought of riding on gravel strikes fear in many motorcyclists.  Lets face it.  Anyone who rides a lot will have to ride on gravel or other loose surface at some point.  It may be a roadside pull-off, gas station, or running off the edge of the pavement.  It is unavoidable.

Here are some techniques which will help to make the ride on gravel more controllable.  A basic sensation when riding on gravel is that even with the bike under complete control, it will still feel a little “squirrely”.

  • When approaching the gravel road, brake to slow the bike while you are still on pavement.
  • Do most of your turning while you are still on pavement.  Have the motorcycle aimed in the basic direction you want to go once you cross from pavement to gravel.
  • Coast from pavement to gravel.  Avoid braking during the transition from pavement to gravel.  This keeps the wheels from locking up on the gravel.
  • If you do have to brake on gravel, use the rear brake only.  Braking with the front brake may cause the front wheel to skid causing loss of steering and a possible spill.  A rear wheel skid is more easily controlled.
  • Off-road riders hug the fuel tank with their legs to better feel and control the bike.  This also works when riding on gravel.  I find that by hugging the tank, I use my legs to stabilize the bike by pushing the bike side-to-side.
  • The correct speed is important.  I see people trying to go 2-5 mph on gravel and then blame the gravel.  Try riding that slow in a paved parking lot.  It is difficult and on some bikes nearly impossible.  A good “slowest” speed for riding on gravel is 10 mph.
  • When returning to pavement from gravel, align the motorcycle on the gravel so the turn can be easily completed once the motorcycle is on pavement.
  • Minimize and avoid if possible, spinning the rear tire on the gravel before hitting the pavement.  A fast spinning tire grabbing the pavement creates a hard jerk on the drive components which could cause damage.  The sudden difference in bike handling can also cause a moment or two of excitement.
  • Remember, on gravel, even with the bike under control, it will still feel a little unstable.

I hope these techniques help remove the anxiety of riding on gravel and other unfavorable surfaces.  Knowing it can be controlled makes a more enjoyable ride.

Apr 08

20

A shelter from the storm

By DHENRY
Filed Under 2007 Idaho Ride  | | 2 Comments»

Continuing from my last post…
The rain passed over us and a rainbow appeared- but the sky was still very black in the direction of Laramie where we were heading. We made our reservation at the Historic Elk Mountain Hotel, turned around and rode back the three miles to our safe haven for the night.

This was new territory for us. G.T. had never wanted to stay at a Bed & Breakfast. “Isn’t that one of those places where you stay in someone’s home and have to share the bathroom with strangers?”
But with the storm we had just been through, and were sure to encounter again if we pressed forward, the choice seemed to be spending the night at the B&B or spending the night in the Rest Area. We were a long way from Laramie, it was getting late, and there just wasn’t much else available in the middle of Wyoming.

This ended up being a most pleasant stay! The Elk Mountain Hotel was built in 1905 on the Overland Stage Station property. Through the 30′s 40′s and 50′s it was along the route of the Lincoln Highway. It was a popular stopping place for many entertainers as they traveled across the country. The dances at the nearby Garden Spot Pavilion drew crowds from miles around to hear the bands of Lawrence Welk, Louis Armstrong, and others. There are pictures and autographs of many famous people who have spent time at the Hotel.

http://www.elkmountainhotel.com/index.html

After a comfortable night’s sleep, I was wakened by sunshine coming through the windows. I was drawn to the balcony to watch the sunrise and then drawn beyond to explore the meadow with its looming cottonwood trees.

After enjoying the breakfast part of “Bed and Breakfast”, we left that morning, refreshed, renewed, and ready for the road ahead of us. Elk Mountain had been a thoroughly enjoyable experience. The next time you are traveling I-80 through Wyoming, I recommend stopping at the Historic Elk Mountain Hotel.

Apr 08

7

The Lincoln Highway

By GT
Filed Under 2007 Idaho Ride  | | No Comments»

US Highway 30. Another road from my past. The first trans-continental road, the Lincoln Highway runs from New York City to San Francisco and directly through Grand Island, Nebraska, near where I grew up. It was the main artery across the nation before the interstate system and inspired the plan for the interstate system. Much of Highway 30 has been overtaken by I-80 but we found a stretch between McCammon, ID and Granger, WY that seemed to cut the corner and save a few miles between I-15 and I-80. It ended up being a fairly busy road with a good bit of truck traffic. Apparently others found it to be a “short-cut” also. 

We took our one “on-the-road” sight seeing stop at Fossil Butte National Monument. (It was less than a mile off the road we were traveling – not too far out of the way.) That was interesting and I learned something new. In that area, which is an ancient lake bed, there are fossils layered between the rocks. When the rock layers are separated, incredible fossil portraits of plants or animals are revealed. 

We watched through the day as powerful white clouds billowed up behind us. The clouds were beautiful against the colors of the Wyoming prairie/desert but we knew they threatened rain if we allowed them to catch us. 

The clouds did catch up with us as we neared Elk Mountain, Wyoming and they delivered everything they had promised. The sky ahead of us darkened and we watched as lightening struck the mountain top repeatedly. We were around 8,000 feet as rain started falling. The temperature dropped and the rain came down in frozen pellets that stung through our rain gear. This rain mandated a stop. We were still some 50 miles out of Laramie where we had planned to spend the night as we pulled off at a rest area to get shelter. On the bulletin board there was a brochure for the Historic Elk Mountain Hotel, only three miles from where we were. We called the number and were assured that there was an available room in this remote Bed and Breakfast where we could spend the night – a shelter from the storm.

Feb 08

4

On the Road Again

By GT
Filed Under 2007 Idaho Ride  | | No Comments»

We had the best time in Sandpoint visiting our daughter and her husband.  August 14 was their 3rd anniversary.  And it was the day we needed to be back on the road heading home to Georgia. To start this homeward ride, we took a scenic back road, Idaho 200.  From Sandpoint to Missoula, MT we followed the Clarke Fork River (named for Wm. Clarke of Lewis and Clark).  It was an incredibly beautiful ride through the mountains of Idaho and Montana.  I understand why our kids enjoy living here.

In Missoula we picked up I-90, then turned south on I-15.  The air was thick with smoke from the forest fires - which burned through most of Summer ’07 – creating an eery, yellowish atmosphere as we rode down a nearly abandoned Interstate.

Mile after mile we rode- there isn’t much to interrupt the scenery.  We crossed back into the lower part of Idaho and got as far as Pocatello where we stopped for the night.

Jan 08

27

Big Trees, Swinging Bridges

By GT
Filed Under 2007 Idaho Ride  | | 1 Comment»

Sunday afternoon was a time to see some of the beautiful country around Northern Idaho. (The picture above is at Cabinet Gorge.)  On the sight seeing docket was “Ross Creek Cedars”, a conservation area with virgin timber.   We wandered through the giant cedars in an almost “other-worldly” atmosphere.  Grand and awe-inspiring!  http://www.libby.org/homepage/RossCreek/.

The next stop was Kootenai Falls. http://www.libby.org/homepage/KFalls/.  This was another example of Nature’s beauty – the waterfall is spectacular.

The other attraction at this area is the Swinging Bridge.  I get freaked out by heights - but to be a good trooper I crossed the bridge with the rest of our group.  Going over was not too bad, but once across the bridge there is no choice but to go back across it.  Going back was bad – some impatient tourists at the other end started across while I was in the middle, hanging out in space over the water swirling below.  I had a bit of a melt-down. So I need to work on overcoming that fear - like tackling the swinging bridge at Tullalah Gorge (the nearest to home) this coming summer – maybe…

Jan 08

10

Flying High

By GT
Filed Under 2007 Idaho Ride  | | No Comments»

We got a glimpse of another way to travel and some of the people who are crazy about it.  Our son-in-law works for Quest Aircraft,  a company that designs and builds airplanes – in particular, Short Take-Off and Landing aircraft for use in areas with less than ideal conditions. http://www.questaircraft.com/ They just received the go-ahead from the FAA on full production of the “Kodiak”.  It was an exciting time for the company and we enjoyed being there for the celebration.


There was a “Fly-In” at the Sandpoint airport and we saw some interesting airplanes.  My favorite was this Piper Cub.

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